Sailing the Exuma Banks 

Friday February 17

From Allen Cay (home to our friends the Iguanas) to Rose Island east of New Providence Island (Nassau). Doing 5 knots in 5 knots of wind. The water is turquoise and wonderfully clear. Every now and then we have to dodge a coral head but they are easy to spot as dark patches on the water.

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Iguana go to the Beach? Can’t, too much to do. 

Thursday, February 16:

The Allen Cays are known for protected Iguanas and I finally saw one shambling across the beach this morning. But we had too much to do so we will leave the exploring ashore until tomorrow

Who knew there could be so much to do on a little 31 footer? Like stow garbage under the forward beam covers!! Genius.

The day threatened rain so the guys put the dodger on to keep our cockpit drier.  It has plastic windows which zip into place. A nice compliment to the bimini for shade at the stern.

Paul did some sail strengthening with a needle and thread. He worked a good chunk of the day on his task when one of the other cruisers dinghied by and said “I have a sewing machine onboard if you need it.” Too late but very kind.

Jim worked on the plumbing systems… And there are a lot of them. Not sure how some of this was installed but wow is it difficult to access.

I did laundry in a 5 Gallon bucket.  Not easy but I collected rainwater in a tub (thanks Mom) for rinsing. Fyi, as of a couple of days ago, my nickname is now Pinky Bob… Don’t ask. 

Haven’t tried running the water maker yet.  Maybe tomorrow. We are carrying a lotof freshwater.  Fresh running water to the galley and the vanity in the head, not to mention having an actual head,  are luxuries we are certainly not used to in our F-22.

One of our neighbours moved so we pulled the anchors and reset a bit farther out from the rocky shore. Our ground tackle consists of Rocky our 33lb Rocna and Bullwinkle the 22lb Bruce anchors. We haven’t the tiny Bruce anchor in the dinghy yetbut we will!

Just finished a lovely supper of barbequed steak which Paul cooked up for.  Incidentally, the Magma BBQ works fine after the guys fixed a seized valve.

Holy smokes something just crashed into the rigging !!!  We ran on deck with head lamps. It was a bird!! It hit the rig and splashed into the water.  Poor thing. It floated away with its wings flapping. I think just stunned. We were kind of stunned ourselves! Paul thought it was a rogue shipping container and Jim thought it could have been a whale (we’re in four feet of water by the way).

Tonight we are having a drink in honour of our late friend Steve Clarke. He would have had a blast on this kind of adventure. We think about him a lot and we miss him. Fair winds Steve. You were a hell of a good guy.

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Lumpy day crossing Exuma Sound

Wednesday, February 15:  Sailors need wind. But sometimes there can be too much and it causes the waves to increase, especially if the wind blows down a long fetch of water such as Exuma Sound.

We had a rolly night at anchor at Lighthouse Beach. The wind clocked around from the south and increased overnight. We knew it would but had nowhere else to go.

This morning we set off to cross Exuma Cay. We were hoping to get to Staniel Cay as Jim really wanted to see the swimming pigs on nearby Big Majors Spot. But of course the wind was right out of that direction. The waves were ok but soon the white horses were racing off their tops And wave heights grew to about 1.5m maybe more.  It was at least 15-20 knots all day.  We had our mainsail double-reefed which was a good thing.  At one point the guys saw a school of flying fish but I missed them.

Bashing south became too uncomfortable so we decided to reach northward for Highbourne Cay Marina but they were full.  So we zigzagged our way through the shallows to SW Allan’s Cay.

We are anchored off of a beautiful horseshoe-shaped beach in 4′ of water with two monohulls anchored behind us in deeper water.  Paul and I swam to check our two anchors and made friends with a curious ray. It had a small fish hitchhiking on top of it.  The ray came right up to me, I think looking for a handout as folks sometimes feed them. I will post pics as soon as I can from my underwater cam. They say there are also protected iguanas here so we hope to see them. So good to get out of the strong winds though there is enough breeze in here to keep the bugs down.

Tomorrow the wind is to blow even stronger so we are staying put for another day, then we’ll see.

 

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Slow Sail South

Tuesday, February 14 Happy Valentine’s Day everyone. 💗

Didn’t get too far today. We woke up and immediately started doing chores like stowing gear better,  etc.

Jim was the first in for a swim as it got hotter. There wasn’t much wind so the swim felt really refreshing.

We dinghied into the settlement of Deep Creek to meet Trevor Pinder of Pinder’s Marine.  He texted that he would meet us at “the dock”.  When we neared the settlement, all we could see from the water was a long rock jetty. Was this the dock?  The tide was ebbing and we weren’t sure there was enough depth along the jetty even for our dinghy. But never fear, the water is dredged on one side and there was Trevor waving at us from halfway down the jetty where he’d parked his car. He had a few bulbs which he thought we could use for the blown ones up the mast or at the stern. Nice guy.  He goes up and down Eleuthera to help boaters. We have lights enough to light us up at night so we likely won’t go up to install these

The settlement has a bunch of dogs running around. Two males adopted us and trotted along in front of us as we walked up to the convenience store for ice cream. Jim gave the toffee-coloured dog some water and they were fast friends.

Back at Pinder’s shop, we shot the breeze with some townsfolk for a bit. When we made to leave, the two dogs alerted us to a pack of dogs up ahead and stayed close by our sides. The other dogs didn’t come near as we walked by. Amazing.

We said goodbye to the dogs and dinghied back out the not-so-Deep Creek through a route Trevor had suggested earlier as the tide was flowing out and parts of the Creek were drying out.

We hauled anchor after lunch and made for South Eleuthera hoping to get across to Little San Salvador but there just wasn’t enough wind. We sailed past Bannerman Town,  which is the Princess Cruise Lines “desert island” where folks can come ashore to have a beach day or do excursions.

Checking the charts and the projected swing of the wind to South, we decided to anchor off Lighthouse Beach where it is nice and sandy.

Tomorrow it is supposed to be windy enough that we can sail over to Staniel Cay in the Exumas so we will try that.  Cheers!

Anchored just outside of Deep Creek.

Meetin’ Trevor at the Deep Creek “dock”

Church at entrance to Deep Creek jetty.

Cemetery at a different church.

Our new friends.

Good bye friend.

View of our boat from inside the shallows of Deep Creek.

Bannerman Town below.

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Not so Deep Creek

Monday, February 13:

Sorry if you were looking for our Tracker earlier.  It was so busy getting all of our gear out of the cottage and getting underway that I forgot to turn it on!

We made MANY trips with the dinghy back and forth with our stuff (yikes have we got a lot of stuff!) and finally left the anchorage behind the house around noon.

We sailed out of the Sound and worked our way through the Shifting Sands off of Cape Eleuthera. Exciting stuff trying to figure out if those breakers we saw in the distance meant shallow water!!!!  Or if the dark patches really were coral heads (yep)  or if the really really light coloured water was really shallow water (yep). One really needs to navigate by eye and not trust the electronic charts.  The key is the not have the sun in your eyes. I’d hate to round Cape Eleuthera in the dark! But all was good and we were very careful.

It was a beautiful afternoon of sailing around the Cape and south along the shore to Deep Creek. Light breeze, sunny but cool in the shade. We clipped along under main and Jib at about 6-8 knots. Going south we put the screecher up (the big light wind sail)  as we headed for Deep Creek.

We crept our way into the well-charted entrance …which we knew was shallow, thinking we could drop the hook near the mouth when we touched bottom.  Dang.  No worries, it was all sand.  Saw a sea turtle and some kind of big fish about 4′ long zooming around.

We turned out of the mouth and are now anchored just outside in about 6′ of shallow bottom.

The boys have the BBQ going and we’ll do supper soon.

By the way, we may soon be in areas with limited cell range but I will try to blog when I can.

Here is Jim looking pretty comfy at the helm. The deep water is indigo!

Paul having a well-earned rest in the shade earlier as we were sailing along.

The mouth of Deep Creek and our celebratory beverages on our solar panels.

First sunset at anchor.

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What Do We Have Here? (videos)

We’ve got a sailboat!  The first sail….minus the jib which was being scrubbed.

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Whatever Floats Your Boat continued again…(videos)

Trying to download some videos of the actual trip from Andy’s house to the “ramp”…then the launch and the craning of the mast…OMG what an adventure.

 

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Whatever Floats Your Boat continued…

Today is Sunday the 12th but here is more info on Launch day yesterday after 4 days of:

  • A half day of driving up and back to North Eleuthera Airport to get the rest of our stuff.  We had to pay a bit of duty but not too bad. Seeing Jim in the back seat surrounded by kite boards and other stuff was hilarious not to mention that the exhaust system except the tail pipe fell off on the way north!
  • Planning and prioritizing repairs
  • Setting up a “work table” on Andy’s truck (under repairs) using the slide out berth from in the boat (aka Paul’s bed)
  • Assessing damage to hull by tapping for soft spots, digging them out with a knife, chisel and a hammer
  • Knowing you’ve reached the end of the soggy bits of the core when the colour is no longer black and squishy!
  • Grinding out damaged areas including holes and thin cracks all on the port side
  • Filling holes with high density foam, fibreglass and epoxy; sanding, sanding, sanding
  • Learning to manage the sun and the heat whilst doing all of this work. Lunch at the cottage and short siesta worked great for preventing total exhaustion. Lots of hydration too.
  • Washing and cleaning whatever things from the boat that we could at the cottage (our rental house called Blue Ocean) such as scrubbing the exterior cockpit cushions which had gone moldy; washing the interior cushions which are in pretty good shape; cleaning the plastic dodger windows; and inspecting and cleaning the basically new mainsail which we laid out on Miss Pat’s lovely patio. By the way, our hosts Pat and Peter have been wonderful! Pat is a builder. She told me “if men can do it, I can do it too.”  She built the concrete patio wall after a big storm threatened the cottage. Now it is much safer from the surge. Good on ya Pat! Peter met us at the airport when we flew in with our rental Jeep and took some of our stuff in his pickup. He’s a retired British Naval helicopter pilot.
  • Combing the island by phone for a gas tank and a few light bulbs for the mast: Frankie came through for us on the Gas Tank! Frankie you’re an angel! No luck yet on the bulbs though Trevor Pinder from Pinder’s in Deep Creek to the south happened to be in Rock Sound so he took one of the blown bulbs to see if he had any back at his place. Still waiting to hear back. He comes highly recommended.
  • Making many trips to the AID hardware store for various bits and pieces. Nice folks there, super helpful. It’s got a little bit of everything there so we found most of what we needed.
  • Making many trips to the Market grocery store next to AID to stock up on food. The liquor store is next door in the plaza and at the far end is the auto parts store. Many of the cruisers dinghy to Wild Orchid then hang a left and walk north a bit to these stores.
  • Watching cruisers dinghy in to in front of Andy’s or across the street at the Homecoming place to get Free Freshwater! It’s town water which I believe is R.O. Water (Reverse Osmosis which is a desalination process). Free water is a bit hard to find in the Bahamas.
  • Entertaining our first cruising friends aboard: Suky and JoAnne from S/V Shambala! Nice to meet another of my
  • Cleaning the grimey surfaces on and in the boat as it had been sitting for seven months. But she is beautiful now.
  • Checking all of the electrical and plumbing. Figured out the freshwater and black water tanks (thanks to all who sent advice); the head is a manual flush into the blackwater tank or overboard and also has a deck fitting for a pump out. Freshwater tank has been disinfected, cleaned, rinsed etc. Not sure if the Watermaker will work but we are going to carry freshwater in jugs etc. Too. The Watermaker is a Katadyn Power series 40E and we’ve been reading the manual that Carleen downloaded. The membrane that is the big prefilter needed some TLC but it looks pretty good now. Even if it’s iffy to drink, we’ll be able to wash in it.  We got the proper cleaners for the various systems and will try not to do harm to the sea life too.
  • Checking 12 Volt electrical: nav system, pumps , lights, etc –   cabin lights all work, two  forward fans work in v berth, fan we brought for Paul works, galley fan doesn’t (yet), pumps all work (under the sink for water pressure); the two solar panels have been on all of this time trickle charging the two batteries which check out ok. Inverter? Not sure, can’t remember right now. The little Engel fridge might be fried not sure. Hope not. Guys will work on it more tonight
  • Doing a final inspection of hull, patches, mast, rigging, etc. Before launch. Jim said “I remembered to put the plug in!!!”  😜
  • Storing away most of the gear onto the boat except some clothes and food in preparation for the launch
  • Craning the boat onto the trailer! Carleen was away on an errand so couldn’t get pics (dang) but it was lifted with 4 deck rings for that purpose over the truck, spun around and gently-placed on Andy’s big powerboat trailer. He got his powerboat going (it too was being repaired) enough to put it in the water to free up his trailer for us! So nice.
  • Then hauled the boat through town to the launch ramp near the airport. I think he may have built he ramp with some of his machinery. The side of the ramp was littered with conch shells, some pretty small so some locals (not commercial conch fishermen who only keep the big ones) just left the shells after taking the meat. Andy wasn’t happy and said he’d have to bring the excavator down to clean it all up. The ramp was just scraped off limestone.  The pickup wasn’t four wheel drive so the tires spun a bit and the trailer tongue got stuck on the grade for a bit but once I moved my lard butt to the stern of the boat, it went into the water just fine!
  • Tying to the tiny dock with the land edge being full of jagged edges:  it was kind of scary as extreme low tide hit dye to the full moon.  No problems Mon as Jim put an anchor out to port to hold us off the dock and the offshore breeze helped too. The two teenaged guys helped to fend off as well. Thanks Brendan (he’s in the black shirt, wants to be a math teacher) and Tavio (likes Art especially doing realistic drawing).
  • Watching Andy crane the mast over onto the boat once we went back to his place with pickup and trailer. (Got the paddleboard and the last of our stuff….the screecher – our big light wind sail that is on a roller curler on the bowsprit). Trucker Paul had a pretty careful eye on all of these proceedings but was especially nervous with the mast installation. But Andy, Jim, Frankie, and Paul all worked as a great team to get the mast up and everything rigged. So happy!
  • Hearing the new-to-us Honda 9.9hp purr like a kitten on start up.
  • Watching young AJ work the controls on the crane to bring the hook back into its travelling position and pull the trucks legs up
  • Saying “see ya at the beach by Andy’s” to Jim and Paul along with the four kids: Andy’s eldest Angelique- a grahic artist who studied at the Savannah College of Art, her little brother AJ – Andy Jr. who is 9, and the two twelfth graders Brendan and Tavio. The kids helped to show the guys how to get back through the shallows. They told me that there is a big hammerhead shark that hangs around the dock and the mangroves there. There are also two big trawlers spiderwebbed into the mangroves just behind a wreck of a small cruising trimaran. It was holed during a hurricane some time ago.
  • Watching the crew motor over to the beach where I went to pick them up in our dinghy (it is an Achilles with an inflatable bottom and a brand new 2.5hp Yamaha.). Jim hopped on the paddleboard and met me halfway. He hooked on and I learned that running with a board on the side is pretty crazy! 😂
  • Ferrying the kids back to shore and howling with Brendan as he thought the water was “freezin’ mon”. Jim took AJ on the board and though he didn’t want to at first, he was coaxed into paddling too. Nice kids, always polite and say “Yes, Ma’am or no Ma’am.”
  • Deciding to anchor off the cottage. Jim set the big new 33 lb Rocna anchor. His comment about that was “that anchor is freaking huge!”

Finally celebrated with some cold beverages at the end of a very long day! Videos coming…

 

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Whatever Floats Your Boat!

We have hit the water and all is well so far. More pics and hopefully videos tomorrow about our activities today including the lift onto Andy’s own big powerboat trailer, the mile long drive down the narrow main road through town, the launch and the craning on of the mast, etc. In the picture above, the guys and some kids brought One Love to the town and anchored off of Andy’s house. Jim is in the shot coming to shore with the paddleboard.

“One Love” is now anchored behind our rental house and is glowing in the light of the full moon. We’re all exhausted so hitting the sack.

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The Ocean Hole

The Ocean Hole is an inland brackish water swimming hole in Rock Sound.  It is a lovely spot next to the Elementary School and they have made it into a cute attraction with a visitor’s centre and a park. It is quite round and has roughly-eroded limestone edges about 20′ high.

We headed there after a long day of working on the electrical and plumbed systems of the boat. We met a local family there who helped to identify some of the fish which were schooling near the platform next to the water.. The fish come looking for handouts as many visitors bring bread and feed them by hand.  I immediately slipped into the refreshing water and the little girl asked me if I was afraid to swim with all of those fish, some of which were maybe 12-14″ long.  I said no. I took my underwater action cam (no it’s not a GoPro) and joined the school.  It was so cool how curious/hungry the fish were.  None touched me but the big French Angelfish (with white lips and small yellow fins) came within an inch or so.

 

 

 

 

 

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